Gigi Hadid debuted Todd’s show in a black pantsuit and coat, telegraphing creative director Walter Chiaponi’s goal of giving a more necessary and serious look to the fall.
Existentialism, he said, was a more “comfortable and honest” way to present his views, “denying frivolity”, was affected by the past few weeks, and was still coping with the consequences of the pandemic.
This is not to say that the collection was monotonous. He sprinkled Bermuda pants and hats with a cascade of sequins—right down to the shoes.
Chiaponi also introduced color—a lot of browns that are reminiscent of Todd’s main leather business; Terrible mixed media outerwear, and lots of casual knitwear.
The designer embellished the jacket with leather patches marked by the brand’s signature Gomini motif. The slim silhouette of the ’90s contrasted with the exquisitely drawn trenches and fuzzy wool coat. Chiaponi reimagined the bag made famous by Lady Diana with no lining, making it flexible — “as easy to toss in a suitcase as we all hope to start traveling again.”
The designers have been honing a distinctive look for Todd and this collection was one of his best, with a clear vision and well executed.