As Russia’s invasion of Ukraine intensifies, sitting in a fashion show feels more awkward. You could feel some unease in the room during the Givenchy Fall Show on Sunday night, when a crew appeared in olive and muddy brown. Was it army green?
And here’s another thought: Will the industry need to rethink or rename the “bomber jacket”? Several of them followed the Givenchy runway that night, tiny drones swooping around on clothing to grab the footage.
As a designer, Matthew Williams favors a dark, industrial-hued chic, which he outlined with a hulking, loft set in a corner of the sprawling Parisian La Défense Arena. Once everyone was seated, the black tarp was whipped up to reveal a transparent catwalk, with models making their first pass under the floorboards.
Williams is up front about mining the Riccardo Tisci era in the home, reminding a reporter backstage that the Italian designer was among the first to bring streetwear into the luxury universe. She also flicked through her camera roll to show off the archival look of founder Hubert de Givenchy, which inspired a pearl-studded flapper dress and hers-and-hers couture coat from the ’50s in an ocelot print.
Williams opened her co-star performance with a new take on the graphic knit that Tisci made synonymous with home. Admitting that he “treats the casual with as much care as the formal,” Williams’ rocker tees were cut with scissors just before hitting the catwalk so that the raw edges “don’t roll over much.”
What stood out were the intricately knit fabrics with flounce skirts of hand-stuffed ruffles. It was the handiwork of Givenchy’s couture atelier, which has been combined with ready-to-wear.
Williams revealed that she will eventually turn her hands on a full couture collection, and plans to have it on the Paris runway in July. “I’ve been working on this for a few months… and it’s very special. I’m really honored to be able to do this,” he said enthusiastically, pointing out that he uses some of the most modern materials and techniques in the haute. bring to the area.