Matthieu Blaze Opted for Quiet Chic for His Bottega Veneta Debut – WWD – Pen 18

If a lot of the fashion show this week in Milan seemed a little too much, Bottega Veneta stood out for cool, but ultimately eye-catching chic, hinged on beautiful tailoring and luxurious, eye-catching accessories.

Making his debut as the brand’s creative director—he was promoted from ready-to-design director following the ouster of Danielle Lee—Matthew Blazey didn’t make some of the expected U-turns.

There were still runway fireworks—a pair of fiery orange furry platforms, and dramatic leather circle skirts with a crinoline of stiff fringe swiped down the hem. Yet most clothing registered as conservative and timeless, with subtle but interesting design features, such as the sensational navy peacoat with its boomerang sleeves and rounded back, or cropped pants with hem lofted platform pumps to elevate and express blazes. To lean forward. The idea of ​​craft in motion.

“A silhouette that really conveys the idea of ​​speed, because Bottega is a bag company in essence. So you’re going somewhere, you’re not staying at home,” he explained backstage.

He cited a desire to “give the idea of ​​sewing a place back, especially in Italy…. I think it’s a great alternative to loungewear.”

Blazee opened her repertoire with a palate-cleansing outfit—a white tank top and jeans—in line with her previous job at Calvin Klein, where she worked as a design director under Raf Simons, working on cubes. was among the guests seated. Topped with crushed metal black leather cushion.

Press notes clarified that the pants were not denim, but “a printed, open nubuck, shockingly felt.” Blazee repeated the visual trick with striped men’s business shirts worn as short dresses over over the thigh boots. These were also made of printed nubuck, which explains their strong presence in retrospect and underscores the designer’s vision of luxury as “the personal enjoyment of quiet power”, something felt rather than seen. Is.

The designer typically works in a minimalist vein with the same visual flourishes: shorter tank dresses are gently padded at the top, or tighter sprigs of leather fringe sprouting at the collarbone, while longer styles feature ballooned ones. There were skirts that deflected from one side to the other. kiln

The men’s collection was more firmly rooted in the classics and focused on outerwear: double-breasted topcoats generously proportioned and leather trench coats boasting demonstrative closure. The house’s signature woven leather—the Intreciato—was worked into a boxy clutch bag, the unconventional and barely leak-proof hip wader, and her double bucket bag hangs over the shoulder like Jack and Jill’s, which holds a bucket of water Could.

Backstage after the show, Kering honoree Francois-Henri Pinault placed his hand around Blasey’s shoulder, and celebrities including Julianne Moore, Neneh Cherry and Tracee Ellis Ross lined up to hug her.

Here’s a designer who isn’t apologetic about addressing a more mature client.

“You know, it’s so important to think about who wears what, and who has the money to afford it,” he told reporters in an outcry, leaning forward to speak in a bouquet of iPhones. “I like the idea of ​​my parents being able to dress, and if they come to Bottega, they can get a coat. I’m really against this idea of ​​just being young.”

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