london – The first MA Fashion Graduate Show in two years at London’s Central St. Martins was packed with great ideas and showcased how a new generation of young design talent is using fashion to explore topics such as male body diversity, gender identity and sustainability. Still working.
One of two winners of this year’s grand prize L’Oréal Professional Creative Award, London-born Latinx designer Edward Mendoza shows off playful, almost cartoonish, clothes for older men. The designer himself was one of the models.
Spain’s Bryce Elbor was another designer who featured her collection on men considered “plus-size” by traditional industry standards. The designers also walked into the show, accompanied by muscular youths and a bodybuilder, all wearing bird-inspired outfits.
The other winner of this year’s L’Oréal Professional Creative Award was Jason McTangle.
The Philippine-born Macatangay first caught the attention of the industry with his 2020 BA graduation collection in Central St. Martins, which featured colorful structures made from scrap chairs and layers of colorful draping throughout the body.
They slashed the volume heavily for this MA collection and introduced some shop-floor-ready sexy dresses that were minimalist but impressive.
“I decided to take a minimalist approach because I wanted to focus on the woman I want my work to represent: sensual, sexy and not afraid to show skin. I want the whole collection to be about her, To accentuate the feminine figure and showcase it in its brightest light,” the designer said after the show.
Joe Pearson’s lineup, inspired by photos of Helmut Newton, featuring corsets on men and dresses wrapped around an almost naked body, went viral shortly after the show.
Other standouts from the 32-designer lineup included Rafaella Pestritu, whose dramatic women’s designs served as a subversive commentary on her experience in post-communist Romania; Aaron Ish, who incorporated 3D printing accessories into the design of men’s wear; Brandon Choi, whose refreshing look was shown on bodies of varying ages; Junta Kim, who incorporated a women’s corset into men’s fashion, and Alyssa Groeneveld, whose men’s wear pieces were pattern-free by draping directly over the body with fabric cut from existing fabrics.
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