Paris, The LVMH Awards Showroom returns to Paris Fashion Week for its first physical edition since the outbreak of the coronavirus pandemic, bringing back the joy of physically touching and feeling clothing in a season with a greater focus on craftsmanship and local production .
“It is essential to see the products. It’s very difficult to see the quantity and colors of a handbag or clothes on Zoom, and so it’s great to be able to meet everyone in person today,” said Delphine Arnault, the force behind the initiative and a key talent scout in the family – controlled luxury conglomerate LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. “It’s always refreshing to feel all this optimism and a sense of being able to do it.”
During the two-day event from March 4 to 5, 19 finalists gathered at the LVMH headquarters on Avenue Montaigne to showcase their collections to industry experts. Members of the public were able to vote for their favorite designer online to help select the eight finalists.
Organizers stated that in light of the war in Ukraine, the prize would support the country’s three former semi-finalists: Anna October, Julie Pascal and Anton Belinsky. October used the prize platform to let shoppers know that it was showing at the Papier Mache Tiger showroom in Paris as of Friday.
“Somehow I made it from Kyiv to Paris to present my work,” she said. “Business is very important to us at the moment because it’s the way to support the team, to support the country.”
In an update earlier in the week, Ukrainian Central Saint Martins graduate Ola Kurishchuk said that Belinsky joined as a volunteer for the City Guard in Kyiv to fight the Russian army, while Pascal took refuge in a basement with two young children. was taking
Selected from 1,900 applicants, this year’s contestants were from the US, Sri Lanka, South Korea, France, China, the United Kingdom, Belgium, Italy, Spain, Ireland and Japan.
“It’s highly selective, and being here today is already a huge win for designers. It allows them to meet industry experts from editors to makeup artists, photographers, models, stylists, and department store shoppers. Here Even if they don’t win, these are the people who can advance their careers and increase their notoriety,” Arnault said.
While the mood in the showrooms was a little more subdued than it was before the pandemic, a lightning visit from LVMH President and CEO Bernard Arnault left hearts stunned.
“He’s just the most powerful person in fashion, and almost the whole world, full stop. So it was a little stressful, but it’s pretty incredible,” said French designer Victor Vensanto, who was enjoying a return to IRL events.
“It changes everything. People can put a face before the name. It depends on your personality, but I’m quite shy and shy, but very polite. I think it makes people feel good about you.” I have certainly noticed that when I meet buyers in person in showrooms, they buy a lot through Zoom or line sheets,” he said.
“LVMH Rewards is an amazing platform that allows you to meet so many people, when it is only digital, it is a little frustrating,” he said.
Weinsanto was showing a collection composed largely of fabrics pulled from the platform of Nona Source, LVMH, which offers deadstock fabrics and leather from its fashion house. Nordstrom, Selfridge and H. Carved by 20 retailers, including Lorenzo, her label received a huge boost from actress Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu, aka Sylvie Gretto, dressing up in season two of “Emily in Paris”.
Sales of her fitted knit dress have been 15 percent of its total business since VinSanto launched on its e-commerce platform, and Leroy-Beaulieu made a guest appearance on its fall runway show.
Meanwhile, Array designer Drew Curry shows off her wares to visitors, including Vogue’s global editorial director Anna Wintour. “It’s really been, I would say, the right amount of people. It’s not slow and awkward, but it’s not jam-packed. We’ve been able to talk to everyone, but it’s like a constant flow, which really I am very good,” he said.
The Los Angeles-based designer works with fabrics like khadi cotton, which is hand-made in India. “The priority of the brand is to highlight the human touch, and therefore there is a hand-woven or hand-stitched element in everything that we do in Los Angeles,” he said.
“I’m making things that hopefully people will want to keep for a lifetime and the quality is definitely there. I spend a lot of time researching these fabrics,” Curry said.
Aerei has six retail partners for the spring, including Dover Street Market and Sense, and this will increase to 15 for the fall season. “I don’t want it to blow up immediately. I am in it for longevity and also because of the handwork, I want to make sure that the most effort and time is going to pieces,” said the designer.
Amesh Wijesekera, meanwhile, is working with artists and communities in Sri Lanka to build his own weatherless, genderless wardrobe, working with recycled yarn and fabric salvaged from the country’s apparel industry, which Creates clothing for major brands such as Tommy Hilfiger, Ann Taylor and Victoria. Secret.
“It is giving the craft an elevated luxe feel and taking it out of the country, because in Sri Lanka, the way we use the craft is very specific, so how do we develop and grow it. Huh?” he said. “We have the craft sector, we have the textiles, so it’s about how we bring these elements together because everything is on our doorstep, but I think nobody really appreciated that. “
The designer, who is based between London, Berlin and Colombo, is the first Sri Lankan to make it to the semi-finals of the award. “To be here physically, where people can touch and feel the clothes and get the emotional side of things, I think is very important, especially for a brand like me,” he said.
The same is true for Irish designer Roisin Pierce, who works only in white, to create her zero-waste garments, which are produced in Ireland, using ruching techniques inspired by local craftsmanship. The collection is available exclusively at three Nordstrom Space locations.
“My approach is quite unique, in that I don’t really sketch or mind a finished product, but more than that I look for newness and freshness through manipulating fabric,” she continued. . “It’s really about a love for the craft, and the revival of the craft and pursuing it to get a new end product.”
Faced with a shortage of craftsmen, he has started an initiative to teach Irish crochet to young people in order to prevent the skill from dying out. “My collections today are almost all launched digitally, except in the year where there were showrooms, but it really gets a different response when you can see, and almost understand and touch them, ” He said.
Similarly, Shanghai-based designer Chen Peng creates his collection, which is pronounced like Champagne, especially in China. He specializes in down materials, which he used to make everything from oversized coats to ski-style pants. Peng, who last year collaborated with Moncler on a capsule collection using recycled jackets, is pushing to make the industry more environmentally conscious.
Although he is equally comfortable in physical attire and making NFTs, he prefers to hold meetings in person. “It’s so much better because visitors can physically feel the designers’ ideas, the concept. They can touch the fabric, they can touch the clothing, they can feel what you’re thinking. An online showcase is like a catalogue,” he said.
Unlike most of the designers in attendance, Ellie Russell is more than happy to take Linetz clothing back. After studying screenwriting in film school, the Los Angeles-based designer is all about storytelling.
“Of course, clothes do matter, but it’s really about being a good production partner. But to me, if you don’t have a good story to tell, it’s like why would people care?” he asked. “I’d rather tell a story without clothes.”
His ERL line for men, women and children is based at his home in Venice Beach. “Everything is surf, ski and skate. California is the only place where you can do all three in one day, so everything is in the DNA,” he explained.
Linetz went on to work with Virgil Abloh and Matthew Williams for musicians such as Kanye West and Lady Gaga, and their new collection is popular with artists as well. “A lot of celebrities wear it just because you stand out when you wear it, so I feel like there’s this pop element to it that people react to,” he said.
Still, he acknowledged that no matter how good the collection film, it’s essential to experience the products in person. “It is very important for people to touch clothes and meet the people who make them. You can only get so much on video,” he said.
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